Vintage Sewing -Edwardian-esque Walking Skirt

Well here it is, my first toe-dip into historical fashion. As I’ve been learning what fashion eras I like and don’t like, I’ve been keeping a short list of projects that I would like to create. An Edwardian walking skirt was near the top of that list.

With my deep rabbit hole dive into learning about wool, much like I learned about silk when I first considered making kanzashi I thought this would be a perfect project for some wool I had in my stash.

Pattern: Advance 6177 (1952)

Fabric: Black wool exterior/ cotton twill lining. (Winter weight)

Top: Merino Wool sweater

Shoes: Marc Shoes (German brand)

Book: Dickens 1918 .

It isn’t historically accurate, probably only appeals to a niche group and totally gives off that creepy old lady vibe. Its perfect for me. I had planned on using the pattern from “The Keystone Book - 1895” but being fixated on current global events that was a bit overwhelming to focus on. I adapted an Advance pattern to give the look (and had enough fabric for) that I wanted to achieve.

I love the cotton twill lining I chose. It truly makes it feel like I am wearing a blanket. Giant pockets are at the sides and are supported at the waist. I did have to size down at the waist which was a first for me using a vintage pattern. Typically I’m slash and spreading it up to a bigger size. I actually didn’t extend the length too much. I have short legs and the panels were quite long on me to begin with.

I know most folks interact with me on social media, but in case you’ve landed here instead - I wanted to offer an alternative to those seeking out sewing/knitting/craft patterns right now.

There are many Ukrainian artists/sellers who offer downloadable PDF files on Etsy who are fleeing/sheltering in place/fighting right now and it’s a way to support those individuals during this scary time.

You can simply search “sewing patterns PDF” (or knitting/crochet etc) on Etsy - select “from Ukraine” in the dropdown menu for location.

Be safe friends, Thea

Vintage Sewing - Wool Jacket Butterick 8578 (1939) McCalls 864 (1941)

I’ve made it a weekly habit to reveal my latest vintage sewing projects on Mondays through my social media accounts.

This week’s reveal was a little half assed. Last week sewing got put to the side to spend time with two close friends over different days as well as our favorite neighbors too. It was so good to see some favorites up close and catch up in person. I worked on last week’s project when I could.

1939 Butterick 8578 / 1941 McCall’s 864 similar jacket patterns.

I selected an easier pattern. Not only because I need some lighter weight jackets for the warmer season ahead. But I also need projects where I can practice lining things. I’m getting better every time and on paper and in instructionals, it seems like an easy logical thing to do. I just have moments of broken brain sometimes. Thankfully there were no problems with this lining.

The two patterns pictured above are almost identical. The McCall’s 864 pattern is the newer one coming from 1941 and it also offered an embroidery option too. In the envelope there is a design transfer and embroidery instructions. I will definitely check that out later. Hopefully I can find a spring color of wool, like yellow or green to do the embroidery on.

McCall 864 (1941)

For this jacket I used the Butterick 8578 pattern. From 1939 and had been well loved as it appears to have been a classroom copy at one point in time. There are very faint writing in pencil on all of the pieces. Only one piece of this pattern was missing. The pocket bag, which is very easy to draft up a replacement.

Butterick 8578 (1939)

“Eleanor Folline (?)

Per 2 - Clothing III

Room 10”

I choose a very fine merino wool in a medium gray color from my stash. I paired it with a black acetate for the lining. Both fabrics are vintage. I haven’t actually completely finished this but it is wearable as is. I need to add the pockets, button closures (I was actually leaning towards not doing that) and finishing the detachable hood.

The almost completed but wearable as is jacket.

I loved how it came together. The front facing and front panel is an all in one piece. The lining easily went it and was easily attached. I even did the era correct thing and added the shoulder pads to give it the iconic late 30s/40s look. It’s easy to toss on and wear. I didn’t do any adjustments to the pattern aside from adjusting the size down just a bit to fit my frame better. But I’m pleased with this and I will definitely make more in this style.

More sewing projects to come!

xo-Thea

Galentine's Day

I fudged up on sending out Christmas cards this year. I knew I wasn't going to be able to get them out in time in December, so I planned to do something for Galentine’s Day.

Be Mine - 6 by 6 Arts / Thea Starr Galentine’s Gift 2022

I had to have had your address as I wanted them/snail mail to be a real surprise. I know my design choice isn’t suited for everyone but I know at least my friends will think of me when they see it.

I have never been a Valentine’s Day person. Nor am I a pink/pastels person which seems to be the standard for Valentine’s Day. So, when one of my favorite vintage reproduction companies released something along my preferred taste of “Valentine’s Day” wear, I snatched it up. I snatched it up because I thought it would go perfectly with my brooch that I designed as the Galentine Gift.

Thea Starr in Pin Up Couture’s Clara Bishop Sleeve Wiggle Dress. (Not sponsored)

I wasn’t wrong.

I wore this dress out and about and while I cooked dinner yesterday. I’m a “I’m gonna wear the dress no matter what” kind of gal. I wanted to make a small to-do about Galentine’s this year because I know a few of my friends are having life “moments” that are on the harder side right now. And I’ve never been afraid to tell my friends that I love them. Although it might come in the form of weird little handmade trinkets like this but it’s love!

I hope you all had a great day yesterday. xo-Thea

A Vintage House Coat - McCall's Pattern 2696 + Fabric From 1977

The robe pictured above was a labor of love. While it was actually a simple make, I decided that I needed to hand sew the entire lining in. I spent most of my weekend parked on my bum in my office in front of Outlander streaming on Netflix hand-sewing this together.

McCall’s Sewing Pattern 2696 from 1970 - size medium.

I’ve had the shell fabric for some time and was deciding on either using it or selling it. It’s a heavier weight cotton, think a soft denim fabric from 1977 made by Riverdale. (I will upload the selvage notation image up on to my flickr soon.) The background is a brighter navy blue with vibrant floral and bamboo imaging. Honestly it’s quite spectacular for being 45 years old. I had a few yards of it and paid $7.99 for it at the thrift store. i actually thrifted everything I used to make this robe/coat. The lining is a substantial polyester satin in a creamy champagne color. It’s some slick devilish shit, which is what made me decide to hand sew the lining in. Better to be safe than sorry.

The colors are very saturated in person too.

While it was a laborious, I actually don’t mind hand sewing. My stitches aren’t super neat or evenly spaced. But this was something that I made for myself and whatever grandchild of mine inherits this can see that an actual human put this thing together.

Alterations to the the pattern:

I shortened the length by two inches. As you can see that the length still drags on the floor a little. I decided to keep it long to add to the drama of my walking up and down my stairs. I am quite extra in that way.

I also changed the collar. I didn’t like the original closed tightness of the the collar. This is meant to be a lounge item and wanted a relaxed fit all around. Otherwise, I sewed the patterned per the manufacturer instructions. Pockets were included, so thankfully I didn’t need to add them.

I paired this with a vintage nightgown.

It’s not perfect but I am quite pleased with it and have enjoyed wearing it so far.

It has been challenging finding good projects for my vintage fabrics that I actually want to (and am brave enough to) execute. I’m glad I did this one.

Now I’m off to dive into another project.

xo-Thea

Weekend Sewing and Darkness Drive Update

I’ve been doing my best to sew with fabrics that would be a challenge for me. I feel like that is a necessary step to my process of learning in my sewing journey.

This weekend I attempted to sew the top of this dress (pictured below) in a beautiful stretch lace. Everything was going beautifully until I decided to line it. I should have listened to my guys and just left it alone. Alas, things did not work out and now that top is in my “deal with it later” pile.

I used a vintage 70’s/80’s knit fabric instead. I did decide to flip the angle of the design to point up instead of down. Just to look a bit different from my previous dress. I think it gives it a 30’s look.

After one more dress on my table, I am moving onto a vintage pattern for a much needed item. I will share that project too.

Until Death - Gothic Valentine

The laser work is still going strong behind the scenes. Unfortunately, it has been awhile since we’ve released a new product. Today I remedied that for our Darkness Drive line. We made the decision last year that I should keep my spooky things separate from our main line, since it seems to dissuade a few customers. So we have a new shop on Etsy for these items for the public. (Wholesale is a different story for any of my shop owners who happen to read this.)

I’ve never been big on Valentine’s Day but love a spooky/creepy/gothy love token. This began as a doodle of vintage mirror I own. I’m sure at least 4 people who own a Glowforge will copy it poorly and list it for half the price by tomorrow. John and I have grown accustom to that and just keep making our quality pieces on our beloved LeeLoo The Laser anyways.

I hope you all had a nice weekend!

xo-Thea

Learning through fabric.

If you’ve been following my sewing adventures, you’ll catch it when I mention that I’ve never worked with a particular fabric before. I’ll share details of my experiences with them and any tips that I learned through the process.

Well, boy howdy do I have some tips about stretch crushed velvet. In my last post, I shared that I made this dress. Super great pattern, very satisfying if you do the stripe thing on top. LOVE IT. But an alternative neckline is a sweetheart gather neckline. The sample photos/videos showed this option. THIS IS NOT A NORMAL PICK FOR ME, BUT I DID IT.

Me in my crushed velvet Joan Wiggle dress.

I sewed this on my beloved PFAFF sewing machine which thankfully has a stretch stitch. I changed out the needle for knit specific fabrics and I gave my machine a cleaning prior. I will have to clean it again now because this stuff just leave a remarkable amount of “fabric dust”. I took it slow and steady with a firm hand on guiding the fabric. I kept my eyes fixed on my 5/8 seam allowance marker on my machine too.

I only lined the bodice. Which is a big deal for me personally because I typically lazy out of lining stuff. I kept the sleeves unlined but I created a “tunnel/tube” for the elastic to pass through at the top of the arms. It worked out really well. I used 3/8 elastic around the neckline as recommended and it really gave it a defining “edge”.

The top is a size up from the bottom. I feel like this pattern has a more generous fit. Perhaps due to the stretch fabrics used. But I really love how many different looks you can have with it.

Lots of good skill building with this I will definitely make a few more dresses and tops too.

I’ve been loving getting out of my comfort zone with fabrics. Sure, I know a lot about silk and silk blends thanks to my kanzashi making, but I’m enjoying building my knowledge base on one of my life’s true loves - fabric.

xo-Thea

The Joan Wiggle Dress by Charm Patterns

I'm a patron of Gertie (Charm Patterns by Gertie) and this wiggle dress is a recent release in her new series. Normally, I am a full skirt or a-line skirt type of gal, but the sewing technique of the top portion of the dress piqued my interest.

Thea Starr - Joan Wiggle Dress

Fabric hoarding came in handy for this one. In my stash was this 80’s vintage velour stretch knit type of fabric that had a nice strip to it. I also have a couple colors of ponte fabric too, which is what I used for the skirt. My Pfaff sewing machine has a stretch stitch setting and I used that in the construction of this. I also switched out my universal needle for a knit needle. Small things worth mentioning.

I took Gertie’s advice to go overkill on pinning every stripe together to get this effect and it paid off.

Up close. I’m pretty proud of this matching.

There are no buttons or zippers on this dress. (Also, sadly no pockets.) So, it’s an easy on and off pullover dress. I currently have a crushed velvet one cut out on my sewing table with the sweetheart neckline. I have some spare striped fabric that I will be making into the top version too.

The style of dress was inspired by a dress that Joan Holloway wears in Mad Men.

It’s pictured to the right.

I love the orange and black stripe on the original and I will searching to find something like that and recreate it.

I haven’t sorted out my plan for a constant need for a pocket for this outfit. I’m guessing I’ll just need to wear a blazer or a sweater that has pockets.

Overall, it was a nice sewing project to start off the new year.

Aside from sewing, I have some plans to revamp my shops in the works. I’m also working on something a little experimental that I hope will be fruitful. I’ll share of course as things develop.

I hope everyone has a safe and healthy start to the New Year!

xo-thea

2021 - Favorite Makes and Vintage Finds

Per usual once Halloween passes, I dive deep into the holiday season rush. This year was no exception. I mostly avoided socials and just posted little stories on IG.

Two days before Christmas/my birthday I closed up my shops for a bit of a vacation. It feels so good to recoup and let go of some rude customer interactions. I typically don’t take things personal, but with mail delays things got a little spicy at times.

With all of that behind me and 2021 almost behind us, I wanted to share some of my favorite makes and vintage finds of the year.

A lined jacket, vintage embroidery tea towels,(An Original By Thea Starr) kanzashi, floral knit top, Super Mario circle skirt and our (6 by 6 Arts) Roots plant stand.

Bedsheet summer dress, bedsheet 60's style dress, snake earrings, vintage patttern Halloween dress, 80's A-line skirt and a vintage fabric Christmas blouse.

I had many makes this year. Also, many I didn’t finish. I look forward to making even more in 2022.

A ridiculous vintage velvet wall hanging, a rare vintage Olga full lace dressing robe, vintage bias tape and more from my awesome neighbor, 1970's deadstock goddess fabric, vintage ice cream boobies slip dress and my vintage tea cart that I plan to restore.

My first true vintage ceramic tree, the angry cat sweater (I sold it), my 1940's vanity set, super clean vintage Daisy print Pyrex divided dish, my beloved Big Eyed doll and my metal/enamel vintage s

2021 was strange to say the least. I’m looking forward to seeing how strange 2022 will be.

Happy New Year Friends!

xo-Thea

Halloween 2021

Happy November to you. I hope you all had a very nice Halloween. We had a fun Halloween season. (That I started decorating for in August.)

I unfortunately, didn’t have time to release all of the products I wanted to on our Darkness Drive collection. We’re still adjusting to just one of us being a full time maker. I still plan on releasing those items in the coming months.

I documented my Halloween Week wardrobe. Many of the items you might recognize from previous posts, others were just some casual wear for sitting on my buns for the AdobeMAX conference.

I shared our annual laser engraved pumpkin video on YouTube. It’s just a fun thing that we’ve done every years since the inception of our business.

Trick or Treating was still a little weird this year. We saw a lot of neighbors asking questions and saw suggestions of how to do it safely. I came up with a little self service display pictured above. We always do something away from out front door due our beloved rescue dog who isn’t fond of little children. We had more trick or treaters than we did in 2019 and our little display (which looked much cooler in the dark with the battery operated candles glowing) seemed to work out really well.

Now onto fall projects. I have a stack of thrifted wool that will be skirts and jackets soon. I also have to clean up my Christmas ornament designs. We’ve already sold quite a few over the weekend.

xo-Thea

Vlog: Pumpkin Patch Trip and Small Business Setbacks

Over the weekend my eldest daughter rallied us up to make an annual pumpkin patch trip. It was rainy, muddy and loud. (The patch that we went to has an apple cannon.) Despite all of that, we had a great time. Check out the video below to see what it was like. Tune back in the last week of October for our annual pumpkin carving session.

In this vlog, I also talk about a couple set backs. With life adjustments and not being full time makers any more, we’re simply just not creating/releasing products as fast as we used to. To me, it’s a 100% frustrating and I hope to magically find extra hours in the week. I’ve been sleeping less and doing more - but I still can’t get to things I want to. However, we are creating a bigger network of vendors for our established products which is great. We’re just trying to streamline a balance of everything and the creative in me just wants to create more. Ugh.

I am sad to not be able to release the two clothing items i wanted to. That particular issue came down to cost of materials. I intend to use dead-stock fabrics for my limited releases. I also intend on offering inclusive sizing. The math and materials just haven’t worked out in my favor so far. I am hoping for spring and summer 2022 to do that.

Despite my personal frustration about work, I’m really enjoying my favorite season. We’ve had cozy fires, soups and set plans for family time. Fall is my favorite.

I hope all of you are well and I appreciate you all! - Thea

Adding To My Halloween Wardrobe

While I have been mainly busy with 6 by 6 Arts recently, I have managed to sneak in some quality sewing time.

I follow a few reproduction clothing brands and I love all of their Halloween (holidays in general) designs. Unfortunately despite my daily manifestations attempts, I am not a money rich lady and I have to just admire some great pieces.

Side note - Many of these women owned companies like Pinup Girl Clothing for example, are extremely small companies. Many pieces are small batch made in the USA. Fabric and labor is expensive and when I make purchases from there I consider them investment pieces and understand the work, time and money that goes into them. I know I’m actually getting a deal on some pieces just in fabric alone.

My zipper front princess dress made from Alexander Henry Fabrics 2006 Pumpkin Party Print

With all of that said, this year since I’ve taken a deep dive back into sewing I decided to add Halloween themed pieces to my wardrobe. DIY style.

I show off a few pieces that I’ve made in the linked video below.

In the video, I do touch on the expense of fabric. I thrifted all of the fabric shown in the video. The striped full circle skirt dress, I thrifted 7 yards of that fabric for $4.99. Up close pictured are available on my Instagram. I didn’t thrift them in a short amount of time and I sat on some of these fabric pieces for a long while. But it can be done. We all can have lucky days at the thrift. Or an online fabric shop on a discount day.

I hope you’ll check out my video and welcome to October! I love spooky season!

xo-Thea

Vintage Show & Tell: Nila Sewing Compact

I share a really fun recent vintage find in this video. A Nila Sewing Compact. I’ve been dabbling with sewing stuff for most of my life and I have never happened upon anything like this.

I love it so much. Even though I paid “up” for it at the thrift store.

The logo is quite small and I don’t have the best lens for the job.

I love sharing vintage sewing items with you all. I use most of them myself. Some I still need to figure out how to use. I will definitely have more of this style of video in the future.

I had a couple inquiries about if I am still sewing. But of course and I will have a show & tell video all about that next week.

xo-Thea

No Craft Shows This Year For Me

John and I recently made the tough decision to not vend at any craft shows this upcoming holiday season. I just want to add that when I say “craft show”, I’m not talking about a small day event. I’m talking about multiple days longs with thousands in attendance over 4-6 weeks.

It’s a lot of work and I of course don’t mind it because it has been a huge part of my life for almost 20 years. This year, for me, still doesn’t feel right, ya know?

It will be a financial blow again in theory, because we typically make a large chunk of our annual income at shows. I talked at lengths with fellow makers who feel the same too. A select few is in a tough situation where they NEED to do shows to “eat”. I get that and it’s hard to make the decision on this for some. I can only speak for myself and I really feel like I am making the right decision for me.

John and I made a little video about our decision here:

If you follow me on Instagram and participated in the poll I mentioned in the video, I really appreciate your input. I also appreciate the refrain of any “Covid is a hoax” or “you won’t die from it”, or the like commentary.

In lieu of shows, I will be offering my own online events and will be participating in a few online shows. The first one is Adobe Max with 6 by 6 Arts. I’ll share more information on that as it gets closer.

I will be sad to not see familiar faces in that familiar craft show setting again this year, but maybe next year? Or I might do a livestream event, if I can sort out a good day.

xo-Thea

Green

I get asked about leaf clips often. They are the perfect little detail to add to your ‘do.

I just listed five new sets in the shop for those of you who have been waiting for them.

Have a great weekend friends!

xo-thea

Spooky Season Is Upon Us

Spooky Season is my favorite time of the year. I love cozy sweaters, hot drinks and cuddling by the fire. I also love watching scary movies and spooky shows. It shows in my house decor.

For many years I, in both of my companies have done something Halloween related. This obviously doesn’t go with the aesthetic of either of my companies. But I keep on doing it. So, I decided to give those things a dedicated home.

Darkness Drive will host all of my spooky themed creations year round. I will still offer a few spooky themed hair flowers and accessories here but if you’re looking for more. Please visit us there and on Instagram.

xo-Thea

Using My Vintage Sewing Patterns

As mentioned a few days ago, i basically went on a sewing rampage. Aside from the Garden Dress I mentioned, I kicked out three bedsheet dresses. All made from vintage patterns and vintage bedsheets.

Technically, the Simplicity Pattern shown here isn’t quite vintage.

I share the information about them in this video.

As with every sewing project, I learn something new. Let me know which one you liked the best!

-Thea

Weekend Sale!

I’m having a little weekend sale over in my Etsy shop! Vintage clothing, vintage fabrics and kanzashi are all included. No code necessary.

15% off orders $30 and up.

Sale ends Monday.

I need to make room for new pieces and autumnal themed things that are coming soon!

xo-Thea

Vintage Jumper Dress and a Panic Attack

In my constant hunt for vintage fabrics, I recently found a bolt of dead stock denim fabric. It’s a mid-weight black and white striped cotton/poly blend from Quincy Fancies. It was originally sold for $1.49 a yard. Amazing right?

The original bolt tag.

Compare at $2.99 yd!

I have been wanting a durable dress to be out in the garden in. Something that won’t get caught onto the blackberry bushes when I walk by. Something with big pockets for my little shears for cutting flowers too. In my vintage pattern collection I had this “Easy stitch n’ save by McCall’s Misses Jumper from 1997. Pattern number 8878.

I thought this combo would be an excellent mix for what I wanted. The pattern is very easy to work with and follow. I did have to size it down a bit to fit my shorter frame. I also had to do a full bust measurement for the bodice as well. I actually need to take it apart and size down a smidgen more to fit me better.

You can see the loose fit in the bodice.

I cut everything out and dug out 14 “close enough” matching buttons and then called it a day before sewing it together. Well, in that time my younger dog Yuki (she’s almost 3) had a small seizure.

It wasn’t something I had personally seen or dealt with before. She was napping in front of a fan and then popped up and did this weird stiff crouching stance like she was frozen. John thought maybe she was choking and couldn’t breathe. He attempted to see if anything was blocking her airway. But that wasn’t it. My knee jerk reaction is always, to go outside and get some air. By the time we made it to the back door (everything seemed like in was in slow motion) she seemed to calm down. John and I were still in complete panic mode and decided to rush her to the emergency vet. I held our 70lbs puppy all the way there because she doesn’t like car rides and she was a drooling mess. The ER vet was 100% awesome and totally patient with two babbling panicked ding dongs (us). Yuki had returned to her very happy wagging self when she was examined and we were basically sent home after a bit. It all turned out okay and she’s fine. But boy, John and I were on the verge of losing it. As John’s cousin Jennifer said “Take my husband but not my dogs.” Ha!

Yuki the evening after her seizure. Totally chillin’ like nothing ever happened.

After all that stress build up and needing to closely monitor Yuki (in case there were more seizures), I continued making my garden jumper dress. However, since I was so worked up I totally oversewed the thing. I did all French seams and marathoned made this. While staring down Yuki the whole time, making sure she’s okay.

That was quite eventful to say the least. Yuki is thankfully okay and was treated by a special visit the night of her seizure by her favorite “boy” who drove all the way out to see his dog. I am very happy with my new garden jumper dress. The pattern was great and super easy. The buttons/buttholes were time consuming. I’ll most likely make another one but with either a zipper front or snap buttons.

The kanzashi I am wearing in the photos. Coming soon to the shop!

Thank you to everyone who reached out and sent good vibes and especially stories of your own pets. They all really helped me settle down. I appreciate you all! - xo Thea

Vintage Show and Tell - Furniture From Forslund Catalog

The Closet Historian is one of my favorite YouTube content creators. I recently found myself binge watching her Cataloging Catalogs playlist. I loved looking through them with her and just seeing all the clothing pieces and accessories that were available. (And that I wish I had now.)

In a recent thrifting trip, I recently found my very first vintage catalog. I thought it would be fun to do a little show and tell about it.

Furniture From Forslund - Carl Forslund Grand Rapids Michigan (United States) Catalog copyright 1959. Paperback 112 pages. Aside from Carl Forslund's furniture, also featured are Owl Hollow Pressed Glass, Westmoreland Milk Glass, Mason's Ironstone Vista and more! I know it would be better and clearer to offer a viewable online catalog. Perhaps in the near future I could do that. But until then enjoy browsing along with me. - Thea

New Stock and My Sister In Law's YouTube Channel

I’m continuing to add new casual pieces to my shop. I only have a few more to share here and then it’s on to making new pieces.

I have to admit, with damaging my main lens on vacation earlier this month I am having a little learning curve with my replacement lens. I’m not 100% happy with these photos. But I am an artist, are artists ever 100% happy? (Hahahaha)

Speaking of my vacation and happy - my sister in law Laura is a vintage seller and YouTuber. This is temporary until Survivor chooses her as a contestant or until Rick Steves takes her on as a side kick.

She pops into antique malls and thrift stores and shares what she finds. She is into the bohemian and MCM aesthetic a bit different from my taste, but like how she is in real life she’s fun human and entertaining to watch. Also, she’s my sister in law, so if you have a connection to our beloved Rick Steves let us know if not, give her a follow.

In her latest episode she shared a little bit of our family vacation and some Oregon Coast antique/thrift finds.

During her hunt she came up on some vintage kimono. They were all in good condition, nothing I would use for my work. She mentions my work in the video too.

While I have new items soon to be in the works for my shop here, I am also cranking out new prototypes for 6 by 6. I’m pretty excited about what I am doing over there so I’ll be bouncing back and forth between here and there with posts. Follow me on Instagram for daily updates if you’re interested in following along.

xo-Thea