Cobbler Dress by Charm Patterns (Patreon)

Even though my kids are grown, after years of habitual weekend bulk baking/cooking I still do it. Just on a smaller scale.

This past weekend I did a bunch of bulk baking and cooking for the week/month. I wanted to get it done before the heat came in this week. I become a lethargic slug in really hot weather and will live on seltzer water, tortilla chips and vegan ice cream unless there is easy healthy alternative available. I was an early adapter to clean eating (at least mostly and my kids are now thanking me 20 years later) and I just hate how I feel when I eat like crap. It’s also expensive to eat convenience foods, so I like to plan ahead.

For kitchen days, I like to be comfortable and okay with getting stuff on what I am wearing. This dress is perfect for that. It’s a pullover dress. No buttons or zippers. Deep pockets and ties at the sides. I’ve also make the top and pants version of this too. But pants are my enemy in hot weather.

I get ask about my vintage chrome and formica dinette set. It was purchased for under $500 in Helena Montana about 20 years ago. It is true vintage and has survived my children and all of their friends for many meals.

Fabric: Vintage floral cotton bedsheet that I thrifted.

Pattern: Cobbler Dress by Charm Patterns (Patreon)

Alterations: No alterations. But I will size down next time. I think this pattern ran on the bigger size. I will also opt out of the ruffles. It gave me flash back to my church dresses from the 80s.

Bowls: My two favorite vintage Pyrex bowls. A primary yellow 404 (I think. Pyrex collectors know what I mean.) Also, my hefty true opal 404.

Stay cool friends. xo-Thea

Kitschy Halloween Print Dress

I am a sucker for novelty Halloween fabric. Novelty fabrics in general or themed things.

This kitschy vintage vibe Halloween themed fabric called my name and jumped into my cart.

I know it’s July but I wear Halloween-esque items all year round. Also, I have time now to sew as opposed to the busy holiday season. So, I’m sewing up my new Halloween themed pieces this month.

Shoes are by Dansko - These are the Thea’s in Black. (no longer available)

I wish I would’ve bought more of it than I did to do a full Charm Scout dress (I need 5-6 yards of fabric for that). But summer slow down is real for this maker’s wallet.

Up close view of the pattern when it was a work in progress.

Details
Fabric: Bodice -Johnny Yanok Trick or Treat Fabric from JoAnn. There are more kitschy designs in this collection. Skirt -Poly sateen I thrifted.
Pattern: Bodice - Charm Scout Dress. Skirt - Night and Day Flared Skirt. Both by my fave Charm Patterns.
Alterations: I misplaced the collar for the bodice and decided I will add that later. I added a zipper instead of buttons. I prefer installing zippers over buttons on this style of dress. I also, skipped the button closure and keyhole detail on the sleeve. I like this style to not be fussy. Easy on, easy off as I tend to work in them.

*Nothing is sponsored, I bought everything myself because I liked them. I am also a patron of Gertie’s Patreon.

Feels a bit weird posting this Halloween dress on a day with 84 degree weather but here I am.

xo-Thea

Simplicity 8351 (1993) Warm weather attire.

My Scandinavian and Swiss German genes really show themselves in the hot weather. I’m sure growing up on an island in the Puget Sound also contributes to my intolerance of weather above 75 degrees too. We recently hit a smidgen above 90 degrees here in the Seattle suburbs and I planned my attire accordingly.

A large hat, sandals and breathable cottons. I made this “peasant” top with ties in the front. The skirt has an one inch elastic waistband, that is easy to pull on and off. Nothing like a hot ass zipper next to your sticky skin in the hot weather. (No thanks.) I move around a lot at home, in the kitchen, garden, sewing room and our dedicated laser workspace daily, so I need comfortable non-annoying things to wear for those activities.

Fabric: The top is a vintage Peter Pan Fabrics calico. Evergreen with a microleaf print. I used vintage buttons too.

The skirt is made from a vintage French floral cotton from 1986.

Pattern: Simplicity 8351 (1993)

Alterations: No alterations to the top. The skirt I added pockets of course. I also halved the length of the bottom tier to suit my height.

I often get comments on my pockets. Personally, if it doesn’t have pockets - I don’t want it. It’s bad enough that I am the person that leaves their phone everywhere and has to back track my steps to find it. Life is much more pleasant for me if I have a pocket to shove my phone in to. But did you know pockets in women’s clothing is a feminist issue? Going back a couple of centuries if not more. The basic gist is that a woman was property, her man would carry anything of importance. I’ll dig up some resources on that topic for a future post.

Lastly, another comment I frequently get is that I never show the backs of my sewing projects. You right. I often just forget to snap up a photo of the back. I take all of these photos with my ancient iPhone set on a timer and try to get it done as swiftly as possible.

While I am trying to be better with blogging again, it is hard to remember to revert back to the early 2000s scheduled post thinking these days. I feel this is the best way to share more details about my projects here. But for quickie posts, I am on Instagram and Flickr. I don’t post much on my business Facebook pages these days though. The less I’m on Facebook, the better.

xo-Thea

Butterick Making History Sewing Pattern B4669 - Corset Vest

As forest dwellers, one must succumb to looking like it every once in a while.
Fabric: Vintage white floral fabric for corset 1.

Vintage evergreen wool paired with the same white floral fabric for corset 2.

Pattern: Butterick Making History B4669
Alterations: Loops instead of eyelets. I always have trouble with putting eyelets in.
I feel that loops are less stressful on the fabric too.

I have a small stack of these Making History patterns and was excited to try one out. I chose pattern A and it was only three pattern pieces. Very easy to put together and its a versatile piece.

I had multiple requests for this piece. (As in to buy.) While I am flattered and understand as a maker my creations could be mistaken as items for sale - because being a maker means you are constantly self promoting your creations for sale. I am currently only making pieces for myself and family.

I try my best to provide as much information as I can about the patterns and materials I use to encourage you to try making your own.

I am on my sewing adventure for my own personal enrichment.

xo-Thea

My Daughter's Birthday Gift - A Handmade Dress

I have a bit of catching up to do here.

First, I did complete The Vintage Fashion Challenge over on Instagram. I can’t believe I kept up with it. As you can tell here, I’m really not someone who is on the internet every day. It was fun and it does feel like a small kind of accomplishment.

Through the challenge, I learned what I “lacked” in my wardrobe and created to make lists and even some to repair lists. I have some great vintage pieces that I would’ve love to show during the challenge, but they needed some repairs or some fitting.

My eldest daughter in her birthday dress that I made.

I shared this on my daughter’s birthday for The Vintage Fashion Challenge on IG

Day 30 Love & appreciation.
How fitting that this prompt falls on my eldest daughter’s birthday.
We’re the less rich version of the Gilmore Girls (minus that weird last season and with three younger siblings.)
Teenage mom, raises a smart, witty, well read, beautiful person to adulthood. Weird hair, music, crafts and clothing phases included too.
I appreciate her for being a great sport along the way.

Her dress -
Fabric: Made from vintage 1960s Italian silk (it’s amazing).
Pattern: Butterick 6582 Retro 1960.
Alterations: You know I added pockets. I also made a stand alone slip rather than lining the skirt. I didn’t have enough fabric for a full lining, so I made an A-line slip skirt to go with it.

My dress-
Fabric: Vintage unbranded polyblend. Texture/weave is like kimono Ro fabric.
Pattern: Gertie‘s Night & Day bodice top with a simple gathered skirt. Snack pockets too of course.

Me and two of my kids,

And no picture is complete without a photobomb from a younger sibling.😂

I was honestly surprised how well the dress fit her without doing any fittings, I trusted the measurements I took a bit ago and hoped for the best. That vintage Italian silk is magnificent. Its absolutely luxurious and it seemed perfect for this project.

She loved it and was surprised.

xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing: Simplicity 8445 (reproduction)

This is my first make completely sewn on a vintage machine! (Singer 201-k)

I’ve had this beautiful pale celadon green vintage eyelet fabric for a while. It had that lovely musty, “Ive been in storage for decades” aroma. Thankfully it wasn't mothballs and a good soak with a splash of vinegar did the trick.

I thought it would be a great cover up piece. An alternative to a bolero jacket for warmer weather. Boleros are not my favorite, I suppose I’ve just never found one that fits the way I want it. But i love a cover up and I thought this would be great.

Pattern: Simplicity 8445

Fabric: Vintage cotton eyelet. It was a shorter 35”-36” width and I had to do some creative pattern cutting for this.

Adjustments: No gathered back. I’m just not a fan of that look. This has a flat back. Hook and eye closures instead of buttons. (That I apparently forgot to do up before I snapped these pictures.) I like myself enough to not try to add button holes to eyelet fabric.

I’ve actually struggled a little with projects to sew for warmer weather. I’m a “put as much fabric on my body as possible” type of person. So, I’m out of my comfort zone with this one, but I do think I will appreciate later in the season when we’re hanging outside in the evenings.

xo-Thea

No new make, but a new to me machine.

No new make this week. I spent most of my time cleaning up my new to me 1951 Singer 201-2. She is well loved and her appearance shows it. But she was also well taken care of by the way she runs. I’ll share a bit more about her in a separate post.

I did make the dress I’m wearing and here’s the details on that.

Pattern: Gertie’s (Charm Patterns) Mariner dress.

Fabric: Bodice - stylized floral cotton print. Skirt - lightweight wool. The dress is fully lined.

Shoes - House slippers, because we don’t wear shoes in the house.

Adjustments: Elbow length sleeves with piping trim. Basic half circle skirt instead of a full skirt.

Bonus: You might notice the top on my mannequin. It’s an Oktoberfest style UFO (unfinished object) of mine. Made with vintage Lanz of Salzburg fabric. I hope to finish it this week. I’m not a pink girl, but I absolutely love the Bavarian style prints.

A Comfortable Jumpsuit Exists.

I was dedicated to showing this off styled differently, I even pushed in earrings so I could wear “bamboo earrings, at least two pair.” Hopefully someone appreciates that reference. Normally, I wouldn’t be excited to make a jumpsuit. Honestly, they are not my favorite to wear. Insert all the memes for having to get nude just to pee when wearing one. But I loved the collaboration of Gertie and Jasmin from Vintage Vandalizm I had to give it a spin. Plus it’s actually really versatile.

Which style do you like best? 40’s, 70’s, 90’s.

70s vibes. I’m wearing my Thea Dansko clogs.

Pattern: Gertie’s Patreon Exclusive Artist Collective - Jasmin Jumpsuit.

Fabric: Black crushed velvet. Lined.

Adjustments: Added pockets. Shortened the bodice. Skipped the elastic at the ankle. Added elastic around waistline for gathering.

“Bamboo earrings, at least two pair.” Plus my older Timberland boots that fit like a glove for a 90’s styling.

This jumpsuit is so comfortable. It doesn’t ride up your bum. It stays put thanks to the elastic around the bust and on the back. I plan on getting myself some sparkly Lurex fabric for the next one.

xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing - Gertie's Scout Dress

I failed to post last week. I did post about my make last week on IG. I was elbows deep in tax junk that my mind was elsewhere. I’ll post about that make later this week.

However, for Easter of course I made a dress. I wore it for the majority of the day to cook in. We had discussed as a family prior to Easter what we planned on wearing and I knew what I planned to wear wouldn’t be nice to cook in, So I whipped up a nice housedress for the day.

Pattern: Gertie’s (Charm Patterns) Scout dress.

Fabric: Vintage Japanese black spring floral print. With tulips of course, I am married to Dutch man.

Adjustments: French seams throughout. Front zipper closure. The original pattern calls for buttons. I’m an odd bird because if I can swap out buttons for a zipper - I’ll do it. Zipper front house dresses are my absolute favorites. I also currently don’t have a machine set up for button holes. I know attachments are easy to swap in and out but I like to have machines dedicated for tasks. I’m extra I know.

I skipped the tab closure on the sleeves too. I knew I’d be moving around and lifting things a lot, so I kept the sleeves open but added some colorful binding.

Bonus pictures of me in my vintage 80‘s dress (with my daughters Nieves & Jina and my son Trevor‘s girlfriend Sophia) that I wore for our family pictures.

Gang gang.

Our normal family pose.

I hope you had a good weekend!

xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing: Butterick B6285 Patterns By Gertie

Spring = separates. I like mixing and matching pieces to be flexible for the ever unpredictable weather here. I pulled a tried and true skirt pattern from my pattern library for this. This color palette is out of my norm but I am trying to expand a bit. I actually only owned one pink item until this.

Pattern: Butterick B6285 (Skirt) Patterns by Gertie - 2015. Mariner Top (Gertie Patreon) These patterns are not vintage but are in a reproduction style.

Fabric: Vintage Navy floral rayon (skirt & kanzashi/brooches). Two sided pink cotton grid print (top) Both thrifted for $3 each.

Adjustments: I like this skirt with a flat front so I only pleat the back. I do this to aid my (ABD -Asian Butt Deficiency) 😂. I always hope bustles will make a comeback. The top is loose on purpose. I didn’t prewash that fabric. I’m a baddie like that - I’ll make adjustments after a wash if needed.

Brooches: I made with scrap fabric and vintage buttons.

Brooches made from scrap fabric.

Using the scrap fabric from my skirt is the perfect example of why I got into kanzashi making. Finding uses for everything. I made these in under 30 minutes.

While I am still working “my day job”, I have made it a priority to decompress most days by sewing something. Things are still heavy in the world, Etsy is jacking up their fees and tree pollen and I battle it our Mortal Kombat style daily. So it’s been nice to escape a bit into fabrics.

xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing: Secret Pants (1930s/1940's Culottes)

Did I make another skirt again?

Nope, they’re secret pants! (Thanks to Rachel Masky coining that phrase.)

As a child of the 80’s I’ve long been a fan of culottes. They just hit different than a palazzo or the like. Palazzos look like I’m wearing blocky curtains and further shrink my already short legs. While I could have adjusted the length on these to have a higher hem, my initial fitting looked decent so I left the length. I’m actually not a fan of crop or capri pants. Or pants in general really due to fit issues. But I do like these and I will definitely be making more.

Vogue Pattern 7339

Adjustments: The pattern piece for the placket was missing. I had to recreate that.

Pattern: Vogue Patterns 7339 (Late 30’s early 40’s) No date is provided oddly.

Fabric: Black lightweight corduroy. I had a limited amount so I do have the grain going two different ways. But I made it work.

Top: A knit mock neck. I also made that last week. It’s a Charm Patterns by Gertie Patreon exclusive Barbie Top. I highly recommend this pattern for learning to sew knits. I get many compliments on the several Barbie tops I’ve made.

I love a good power “Captain Morgan” stance.

My sewing journey continues to enlighten me on garments that best fit my frame. It really is a shame as a society the idea of having clothes made for you on a regular basis fell out of the norm. Not only to have clothes that were made for your frame, but to have a quality long lived item. Fast fashion is the devil.

Now, I really am going to make some more skirts for spring.

xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing: A very bright 1946 reproduction dress.

I said something last week about making colorful things. Prepare your eyeballs for this color flash. Lemon lime/absinthe/chartreuse, neon yellow/Pantone 396, whatever you’d like to call it. I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t be hit by a car crossing the street when I’m wearing this.

This is a rare occasion of me loving the idea of the pattern and then not loving the fit/style. But this is a joy of making your own. I’m still learning what feels best on me. I like to just try things out too. 1940s styles are my favorite, so I had to give this one a spin. I’m sure I could fine tune this a bit more to get the fit I’m comfortable in but I think its perfectly fine to make something and not love it.

I made four hair flowers with some fabric scraps from this project.

I do however, love the color combo. From the beginning of making this dress, I set aside this fabric along with black piping for contrast. The angled cuts of this dress basically begged for them. Along with black accessories and red lipstick, I had envisioned a look. I know the color isn’t era appropriate but, I do what I want.

Adjustments: Shorten shoulders, added contrasting piping, omitted side ruching, added bust darts, added one side pocket and omitted button opening.

Pattern: Butterick B5281 Retro ‘46 (vintage reissue)

Fabric: Thrifted from Goodwill

Hair flowers: An Original By Thea Starr

Purse: 1940s Corde handbag.

Earrings: Vintage moon glow screw-backs. (My fave)

I’ve actually already sewn up two more things that I will share. Sewing has been a great distraction to things that are out of my control at the moment. I have so much to learn and each week I try to build and exercise my skills. Also, I’ve “met” quite a few people along this journey, which has been the best surprise.

xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing: 1940's Style Rayon Dress

Last week’s make was an attempt to make me like spring with some colorful fabric. I’m a horrible sneezefest right now. I pulled this modern pattern that has 1940’s vibes from the stash in hopes to achieve that.

I’m also working on my tailoring skills. Tailoring is such a learning process. My initial goal with sewing wasn’t just an excuse to accumulate all the fabric, but ultimately have a wardrobe that fits me well.

This dress is fully lined. Ruching details on the bodice and sleeves. Sadly a little wrinkly. I should’ve taken photos before working.

Adjustments: Shorten shoulders and added pockets.

Pattern: Butterick B5952

Fabric: Art Gallery Fabrics Maureen Cracknell Summer Dress Dreams/ 100% Rayon

Hair flowers: by yours truly.

Yellow Kanzashi made from vintage kimono lining.

Every sewing project, I try to learn something new or better a known skill. It’s truly an adventure.

Also, with the terrible things going on globally, particularly in the Ukraine which is home to a few makers/creators I follow, it’s nice to keep my hands busy and my eyes not glued to the news.

xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing: Casual Blouse Butterick 6270 (1950)

Last week’s make was something more for my everyday wardrobe. I need lightweight shirts for spring and this fit the bill.

The details are a bit lost in the print but in person you can see them well. Next time I make this pattern I’ll use a less busy print or just a solid.

If you look closely, you can see the stitching detail.

Adjustments; I had to size down and shorten the bodice and sleeves. I plan to tailor it a bit more but I wanted to test a sweater vest with it first. This pattern was a bit too big for me and I do have a bit of trouble sizing down a pattern rather than my normal of sizing up a vintage pattern.

Pattern: Butterick 6270 (1952)

I’ve had the lucky of finding higher sized vintage patterns. This one I did need to size down for me, but I keep the original pattern in tact in case I lend this one out.

Fabric: Thrifted. Looks like a Liberty if London print. Feels like viscose. I love the micro floral print. I tend to lean into those because the bees and hummingbirds aren’t more inclined to chase me in the garden. Things you learn over the years.

Buttons: Vintage (pictured)

Vintage Hollywood brand buttons from my vintage button stash.

Hair flower: Yours truly.

Gray hair for everyday sparkle.

I hvaen’t dyed my hair since February 2020.

It was a bit dark in my office this morning so the full length photos are a bit dark. But I just paired this with some wide leg jeans. Which I hated and changed into a skirt a couple hours after this was taken.

I already have my next project on the cutting table. We’ve been keeping busy during this uneasy time. Its hard to detach from the news.

Keep your hopes up friends, xo-Thea

Vintage Sewing -Edwardian-esque Walking Skirt

Well here it is, my first toe-dip into historical fashion. As I’ve been learning what fashion eras I like and don’t like, I’ve been keeping a short list of projects that I would like to create. An Edwardian walking skirt was near the top of that list.

With my deep rabbit hole dive into learning about wool, much like I learned about silk when I first considered making kanzashi I thought this would be a perfect project for some wool I had in my stash.

Pattern: Advance 6177 (1952)

Fabric: Black wool exterior/ cotton twill lining. (Winter weight)

Top: Merino Wool sweater

Shoes: Marc Shoes (German brand)

Book: Dickens 1918 .

It isn’t historically accurate, probably only appeals to a niche group and totally gives off that creepy old lady vibe. Its perfect for me. I had planned on using the pattern from “The Keystone Book - 1895” but being fixated on current global events that was a bit overwhelming to focus on. I adapted an Advance pattern to give the look (and had enough fabric for) that I wanted to achieve.

I love the cotton twill lining I chose. It truly makes it feel like I am wearing a blanket. Giant pockets are at the sides and are supported at the waist. I did have to size down at the waist which was a first for me using a vintage pattern. Typically I’m slash and spreading it up to a bigger size. I actually didn’t extend the length too much. I have short legs and the panels were quite long on me to begin with.

I know most folks interact with me on social media, but in case you’ve landed here instead - I wanted to offer an alternative to those seeking out sewing/knitting/craft patterns right now.

There are many Ukrainian artists/sellers who offer downloadable PDF files on Etsy who are fleeing/sheltering in place/fighting right now and it’s a way to support those individuals during this scary time.

You can simply search “sewing patterns PDF” (or knitting/crochet etc) on Etsy - select “from Ukraine” in the dropdown menu for location.

Be safe friends, Thea

Vintage Sewing - Wool Jacket Butterick 8578 (1939) McCalls 864 (1941)

I’ve made it a weekly habit to reveal my latest vintage sewing projects on Mondays through my social media accounts.

This week’s reveal was a little half assed. Last week sewing got put to the side to spend time with two close friends over different days as well as our favorite neighbors too. It was so good to see some favorites up close and catch up in person. I worked on last week’s project when I could.

1939 Butterick 8578 / 1941 McCall’s 864 similar jacket patterns.

I selected an easier pattern. Not only because I need some lighter weight jackets for the warmer season ahead. But I also need projects where I can practice lining things. I’m getting better every time and on paper and in instructionals, it seems like an easy logical thing to do. I just have moments of broken brain sometimes. Thankfully there were no problems with this lining.

The two patterns pictured above are almost identical. The McCall’s 864 pattern is the newer one coming from 1941 and it also offered an embroidery option too. In the envelope there is a design transfer and embroidery instructions. I will definitely check that out later. Hopefully I can find a spring color of wool, like yellow or green to do the embroidery on.

McCall 864 (1941)

For this jacket I used the Butterick 8578 pattern. From 1939 and had been well loved as it appears to have been a classroom copy at one point in time. There are very faint writing in pencil on all of the pieces. Only one piece of this pattern was missing. The pocket bag, which is very easy to draft up a replacement.

Butterick 8578 (1939)

“Eleanor Folline (?)

Per 2 - Clothing III

Room 10”

I choose a very fine merino wool in a medium gray color from my stash. I paired it with a black acetate for the lining. Both fabrics are vintage. I haven’t actually completely finished this but it is wearable as is. I need to add the pockets, button closures (I was actually leaning towards not doing that) and finishing the detachable hood.

The almost completed but wearable as is jacket.

I loved how it came together. The front facing and front panel is an all in one piece. The lining easily went it and was easily attached. I even did the era correct thing and added the shoulder pads to give it the iconic late 30s/40s look. It’s easy to toss on and wear. I didn’t do any adjustments to the pattern aside from adjusting the size down just a bit to fit my frame better. But I’m pleased with this and I will definitely make more in this style.

More sewing projects to come!

xo-Thea

A Vintage House Coat - McCall's Pattern 2696 + Fabric From 1977

The robe pictured above was a labor of love. While it was actually a simple make, I decided that I needed to hand sew the entire lining in. I spent most of my weekend parked on my bum in my office in front of Outlander streaming on Netflix hand-sewing this together.

McCall’s Sewing Pattern 2696 from 1970 - size medium.

I’ve had the shell fabric for some time and was deciding on either using it or selling it. It’s a heavier weight cotton, think a soft denim fabric from 1977 made by Riverdale. (I will upload the selvage notation image up on to my flickr soon.) The background is a brighter navy blue with vibrant floral and bamboo imaging. Honestly it’s quite spectacular for being 45 years old. I had a few yards of it and paid $7.99 for it at the thrift store. i actually thrifted everything I used to make this robe/coat. The lining is a substantial polyester satin in a creamy champagne color. It’s some slick devilish shit, which is what made me decide to hand sew the lining in. Better to be safe than sorry.

The colors are very saturated in person too.

While it was a laborious, I actually don’t mind hand sewing. My stitches aren’t super neat or evenly spaced. But this was something that I made for myself and whatever grandchild of mine inherits this can see that an actual human put this thing together.

Alterations to the the pattern:

I shortened the length by two inches. As you can see that the length still drags on the floor a little. I decided to keep it long to add to the drama of my walking up and down my stairs. I am quite extra in that way.

I also changed the collar. I didn’t like the original closed tightness of the the collar. This is meant to be a lounge item and wanted a relaxed fit all around. Otherwise, I sewed the patterned per the manufacturer instructions. Pockets were included, so thankfully I didn’t need to add them.

I paired this with a vintage nightgown.

It’s not perfect but I am quite pleased with it and have enjoyed wearing it so far.

It has been challenging finding good projects for my vintage fabrics that I actually want to (and am brave enough to) execute. I’m glad I did this one.

Now I’m off to dive into another project.

xo-Thea

Weekend Sewing and Darkness Drive Update

I’ve been doing my best to sew with fabrics that would be a challenge for me. I feel like that is a necessary step to my process of learning in my sewing journey.

This weekend I attempted to sew the top of this dress (pictured below) in a beautiful stretch lace. Everything was going beautifully until I decided to line it. I should have listened to my guys and just left it alone. Alas, things did not work out and now that top is in my “deal with it later” pile.

I used a vintage 70’s/80’s knit fabric instead. I did decide to flip the angle of the design to point up instead of down. Just to look a bit different from my previous dress. I think it gives it a 30’s look.

After one more dress on my table, I am moving onto a vintage pattern for a much needed item. I will share that project too.

Until Death - Gothic Valentine

The laser work is still going strong behind the scenes. Unfortunately, it has been awhile since we’ve released a new product. Today I remedied that for our Darkness Drive line. We made the decision last year that I should keep my spooky things separate from our main line, since it seems to dissuade a few customers. So we have a new shop on Etsy for these items for the public. (Wholesale is a different story for any of my shop owners who happen to read this.)

I’ve never been big on Valentine’s Day but love a spooky/creepy/gothy love token. This began as a doodle of vintage mirror I own. I’m sure at least 4 people who own a Glowforge will copy it poorly and list it for half the price by tomorrow. John and I have grown accustom to that and just keep making our quality pieces on our beloved LeeLoo The Laser anyways.

I hope you all had a nice weekend!

xo-Thea

Learning through fabric.

If you’ve been following my sewing adventures, you’ll catch it when I mention that I’ve never worked with a particular fabric before. I’ll share details of my experiences with them and any tips that I learned through the process.

Well, boy howdy do I have some tips about stretch crushed velvet. In my last post, I shared that I made this dress. Super great pattern, very satisfying if you do the stripe thing on top. LOVE IT. But an alternative neckline is a sweetheart gather neckline. The sample photos/videos showed this option. THIS IS NOT A NORMAL PICK FOR ME, BUT I DID IT.

Me in my crushed velvet Joan Wiggle dress.

I sewed this on my beloved PFAFF sewing machine which thankfully has a stretch stitch. I changed out the needle for knit specific fabrics and I gave my machine a cleaning prior. I will have to clean it again now because this stuff just leave a remarkable amount of “fabric dust”. I took it slow and steady with a firm hand on guiding the fabric. I kept my eyes fixed on my 5/8 seam allowance marker on my machine too.

I only lined the bodice. Which is a big deal for me personally because I typically lazy out of lining stuff. I kept the sleeves unlined but I created a “tunnel/tube” for the elastic to pass through at the top of the arms. It worked out really well. I used 3/8 elastic around the neckline as recommended and it really gave it a defining “edge”.

The top is a size up from the bottom. I feel like this pattern has a more generous fit. Perhaps due to the stretch fabrics used. But I really love how many different looks you can have with it.

Lots of good skill building with this I will definitely make a few more dresses and tops too.

I’ve been loving getting out of my comfort zone with fabrics. Sure, I know a lot about silk and silk blends thanks to my kanzashi making, but I’m enjoying building my knowledge base on one of my life’s true loves - fabric.

xo-Thea

The Joan Wiggle Dress by Charm Patterns

I'm a patron of Gertie (Charm Patterns by Gertie) and this wiggle dress is a recent release in her new series. Normally, I am a full skirt or a-line skirt type of gal, but the sewing technique of the top portion of the dress piqued my interest.

Thea Starr - Joan Wiggle Dress

Fabric hoarding came in handy for this one. In my stash was this 80’s vintage velour stretch knit type of fabric that had a nice strip to it. I also have a couple colors of ponte fabric too, which is what I used for the skirt. My Pfaff sewing machine has a stretch stitch setting and I used that in the construction of this. I also switched out my universal needle for a knit needle. Small things worth mentioning.

I took Gertie’s advice to go overkill on pinning every stripe together to get this effect and it paid off.

Up close. I’m pretty proud of this matching.

There are no buttons or zippers on this dress. (Also, sadly no pockets.) So, it’s an easy on and off pullover dress. I currently have a crushed velvet one cut out on my sewing table with the sweetheart neckline. I have some spare striped fabric that I will be making into the top version too.

The style of dress was inspired by a dress that Joan Holloway wears in Mad Men.

It’s pictured to the right.

I love the orange and black stripe on the original and I will searching to find something like that and recreate it.

I haven’t sorted out my plan for a constant need for a pocket for this outfit. I’m guessing I’ll just need to wear a blazer or a sweater that has pockets.

Overall, it was a nice sewing project to start off the new year.

Aside from sewing, I have some plans to revamp my shops in the works. I’m also working on something a little experimental that I hope will be fruitful. I’ll share of course as things develop.

I hope everyone has a safe and healthy start to the New Year!

xo-thea